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FMK: Living The Bicycle Lifestyle Part 1 of 2 (Frugal Life Philosophy)

**FMK: Living The Bicycle Lifestyle Part 1 of 2 (Frugal Life Philosophy)**



View Time:10:1Minutes




1) $20/hour, 40 hours a week, $3200/month, $40,000/year

1) $20/hour, 40 hours a week, Over time pay $30/hour
2) Job location is 30 miles one way, 60 miles both ways. 1 hour commute time 1 way, 2 hours both ways per day, 10 hours/week, 40 hours/month. 500 hours/year. Lost income in over time pay: $1200/month, $15,000/year.
3) Time is seen as lost income b/c it is a forced drive, it is not seen as play, there is no exercise taking place.

1) Purchases a $30,000 vehicle on a 5 year plan. $500/month, $6000/year
2) Insurance: $35/month, $420/year
3) Gas: 20 miles per gallon in city, $3.25 per gallon. Job is 30 miles one way, 60 miles two ways. 60 miles a day, 5 days a week, 300 miles a week, 1200 miles a month. 60 gallons of gas a month. Gas: $200/month, $2400/year
4) Oil change every 3 months, oil change costs $30. Oil change equates to $10/month, $120/year
5) License plate sticker: $80/year
6) City Sticker: $75/year
7) Misc. Maintenance fees: $30/month, $360/year
8) Parking Tickets: $75/year (3 tickets)
9) Traffic Tickets: $375/year (3 tickets)
10) License Plate: $10/year



1) $10/hour, 40 hours a week, $1600/month, $20,000/year

1) Job location is 5 miles one way. 10 miles both ways. It takes 30 min. one way, 1 hour both ways. No income is lost because the commute is viewed as a 1 hour exercise every day. The bike ride is seen as play, not forced work.

1) The bike owner only lives 5 miles from home so his commute time back and force equals 1 hour per day. Whereas the car owners commute time is 2 hours because the job location is 30 miles away from his home. The bike owner saves 1 hour of time a day over the car owner. 5 hours a week, 20 hours a month. 240 hours year.
2) The bike owner makes $10/hr, converted to ovetime pay it is $15/hr. The additional income converted is $300/month. $3600/year.

1) Purchase a $250 bicycle. $250/year
2) Maintenance Fees: $18/year (3 tire flats)



are in this video I'm gonna go over something extremely important this can really change your life dramatically towards a positive healthy way of living to free yourself in the system all right so I need you to pay attention and while you listen to my video open up the description section of this video read along so you can understand because there's gonna be a lot of numbers that I'm gonna speak about when you read along you'll understand more rather than just listening so look at the description section this video I'm gonna teach you how to free yourself from the vehicle the motor vehicle in the car and live your life primarily using a bicycle or your own two feet from walking or running to change your life for a healthier way of living and to not be controlled by the system well you're no longer gonna be a slave to the gas prices and you're no longer polluting the environment you're not gonna be a slave to the traffic tickets the parking tickets the license plate fees just the city sticker fees I mean all the fees associated with owning a motor vehicle so this is how you're gonna do it I'm gonna show you how also you will make more money then if you own a bike then if you own a vehicle I'm going to show you how that works all right okay so if you're a car owner say typically you're a car owner and people that are excuses are that they own a car because they need to get to work and what that what happens is that when you own a car it widens up your job opportunities so you could work farther away so that changes the decisions you make so if you can only bike to work you will only be able to buy so far you're not realistically gonna be able to bike 30 miles to and from work every single day that you have the work it's just not realistic so realistically for a bike owner I'd say anywhere under 10 miles is good it's sufficient because you could ride 10 miles in less than an hour all right so 10 miles one way 10 miles back is less that's about 2 hours of commute time if you ride 5 miles you can ride 5 miles in about 30 minutes so 30 minutes one way 30 minutes back that's one hour commute time a day now if you own a vehicle that that allows you to travel out further so in this example this person is working farther away he's working 30 miles away from his home and it's gonna take in one hour to get there and one hour to come back so that's 2 hours altogether all right in this example the bike owner will be working 5 miles away from home so it's gonna take 30 minutes for him to bite there to 30 minutes to bite back so that's gonna be 1 hour commute time so the car owner has a two-hour commute time the bike owner has 1 hour commute time all right so the car owner because he owns a car he has a higher paying job he'll be getting paid $20 an hour he'll be working full time 40 hours a week and he'll be making $3,200 a month and $40,000 a year these are all approximate numbers I am NOT putting in consideration taxes I'm just gonna keep it simple so you can understand it taxes either both people will be taxed but take taxes out so you can understand it so the car owner is making $40,000 a year all right car owner lost income what that means is okay the car owner makes $20 an hour he makes four he works 40 hours a week so in a full-time job anytime you make you work over 40 hours a week you are compensated overtime pay overtime pay is time and a half so if you work on extra five an extra you know if you work 41 hours a week you're gonna get paid for one of those hours for time and a half so in this case for that hour he'll be get he'll beginning paid thirty dollars an hour so his time is worth at first twenty dollars an hour and then and overtime is worth thirty dollars an hour and remember the essence of this example is time is what's important not money but time time is what's important because time is why we live if we didn't have time then we wouldn't be able to work we wouldn't have you be able to live so time is what's important the employers are paying you for your time so time is important remember that time is important so you want to save time okay and then when you save time you could you can either work more where they'll pay you overtime or you can spend time with loved ones or do things that you truly love to do other than work okay so time is what's important all right so the job location is 30 miles one way 60 miles both ways for the car owner he has a one-hour commute time one way and two hours both ways okay he works so that basically so two hours he has to commute every single day so in a week that's ten hours all right in a month that's 40 hours in a year that's 500 hours so the lost income which I would say it comes out to forty hours time thirty that comes out to $1200 a month that he loses and then to a year that comes out to fifteen thousand dollars that he loses basically those hours that he's commuting his lost income because he works eight hours a day but he doesn't clock in until he gets to work and then he has to clock out once he's done with the work but he still has to drive two hours a day so instead of working eight hours he's actually working ten hours but he's only getting paid for eight so he's losing out an extra two hours those two hours is only time pay that he's not getting paid for so when you convert it into the numbers that I just did he ends it ends up losing $15,000 a year number three time is seen as lost income because it is a forced drive it is not seen as play is not fun for him to drive to and from work it is a forced drive so it's not seen as play that's why it is considered work but it's unpaid work okay there is it there is no exercise taking place because he's in the car all right so we get that out of the way so first we have the income which is $40,000 a year but the lost income is $15,000 a year due to the commute time okay now we got the car owner expenses the car owner expenses he purchases a $30,000 car on a five-year plan that converts to $500 a month that he has to pay and $6,000 a year that he has to pay on that vehicle all right the insurance comes out to $420 a year the gas comes out to the the car will run on 20 miles per gallon in the city that's the the price for gas will be three dollars and 25 cents per gallon the job is 30 miles one way 60 miles two ways that means it's 60 miles a day five days a week is hundred miles a week 1,200 miles a month 60 gallons of gas per month that comes out to $200 a month and in a year that's 2400 dollars a year for gas they has to pay oil change for every three months the oil change costs about $30 so the oil change equates to $10 a month and $120 per year the license plate sticker is $80 a year the city sticker is $25 a year miscellaneous maintenance fees you know that if the tire blows out or something happens to the engine or whatever I gave three hundred sixty dollars a year for maintenance fees parking tickets I gave about three tickets a year so but that comes out to about 75 dollars a year traffic tickets I gave about three tickets a year so that comes out to about 375 dollars a year license plate is $10 a year the total expenses for the car for the year is ten thousand dollars the actual profit for the year is gonna be forty thousand dollars which is the income minus the lost income which is fifteen thousand that comes out to twenty five thousand dollars and then minus the car expenses which comes out to ten that you know which is ten thousand so the actual profit for the year is fifteen thousand dollars when a person owns a vehicle okay so remember that number all right now we go to the

Frugal Living: Keeping Track of Your Stockpile

**Frugal Living: Keeping Track of Your Stockpile**



View Time:2:44Minutes




This is another video from my Frugal Living Series where I show you how to manage all those backups that you have of products you bought when they went on a crazy sale at the store. Koodos to ya’ll who have garages to store your things… now lets see what I do with a small storage closet.

Next in this series I will tackle on gift buying. Doing it right will save you a whole lot of headache and grief.

Frugal Living: Manage Your Chores and Cleaning:

Frugal Living: Eat Cheap & Fresh:

My other channel:
My (back up again) Blog:
My Polyvore Fashion Look Book:


Buying Your First Full Ice Hockey Kit - How To Save Money On Hockey Gear & Buy Cheap Equipment Guide

**Buying Your First Full Ice Hockey Kit – How To Save Money On Hockey Gear & Buy Cheap Equipment Guide**



View Time:19:35Minutes



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A How To guide on buying your first hockey kit – Buying your first ice hockey kit can be very tricky and overwhelming with all the different makes and models of gear. In this video we break down what you NEED (not want) when your starting out and the best way to get it without spending too much money. We’ll go over all the main bits of hockey kit and explain what you need to keep in mind when shopping.

Buy your hockey gear here ! –

Ice Hockey Stick guide – Everything you need to know about hockey sticks

How to select your first ice hockey skates

Part 1 –
Part 2 –

How to select the right ice hockey skate stiffness

hey guys Chris from hockey tutorial and today we're recording in Demon's extreme which is an ice hockey store in Chelmsford and we're going to be going through the basics of if you're beginner to ice hockey and you want to get your kit so we're talking for ice hockey kit we're going to be giving you the basics what you need to keep in mind while you're buying your kit and helping you out and giving you some points and tips along the way so the first thing we're going to start off with is the most important part of your ice hockey kit which is going to be your skates now that we've done a lot of videos in the past on skates the links will be in the video description below and also put two links up there for differences on stiffness and also making model and things like that all about there but a quick basic and guide is what you need to keep in mind with the skates is that there's so many different models and all of these different models have different traits and they're normally good for different kinds of skaters a quick idea is these graphs over here or a marmite kind of skate people either love them or absolutely hate them so that's an important thing to keep in mind when you're looking at skates with your vowel Supremes like these ones over here they're normally kind of targeted at skaters that have slightly wide feet than what's considered the average and your vapers which is like this skate over here are normally targeted at skaters that have sort of normal feet or it could be described as a narrower foot so what you need to keep in mind as well as the different styles of fits that the different manufacturers offer you is also the different levels that the skates are intended for these ones over here are bauer supreme 160s now there's a lot that goes into these and skate levels as I said there'll be a link in the video description above and also a link in the annotation above and below where you need to keep in mind that the different levels of skates are intended for different people of different abilities but also people of different sizes and Heights and Bill's so if you're say a 20 stone player that's about six foot going for a basic skate like for example views 1.0 s4 vapors would not do you any good even though you're a beginner skater because of your build and your size you need to go for a much much stronger skate for example like these X 3.0 switch would be an intermediate boot meaning the structure of the skate is much more strong it offers you a lot more stiffness and will be able to hold and support you on the ice properly these are the different things you need to keep in mind while you're looking the skates but as I said annotation will be more decent above and another video link description below they'll be more detailed there so in terms of how much you want to spend on a pair of skates if you're a beginner going to be playing hockey maybe once or twice a week not too heavy I'd recommend going for something like the supreme one or 60s depending on your fit so you'll have even spending roughly around the 250 mark 200 to 250 mark if you're a fairly fairly light player very young say nine year old or anywhere underneath that a junior will be looking to spend sort of around the 100 to 150 mark that would be okay if you're a slightly bigger player and adult but you're learning and you're a beginner you're going to be needing to spend a little bit more money to get that extra support slightly step the structure of escape which is around the 250 to 300 mark in anyone taller than that or heavier all with a bigger build you're going to be looking to go much higher sort of the 300 to 350 mark so one way to take a look at now is I'm going to be the sticks different choices a lot to confuse a player so we're going to break it down for you and hopefully give you a bit more information about them for me I'd say this is probably the second most important bit of equipment when you're looking at overall ice hockey gear you're going to have with you what we're going to be taking a look at are the different lengths of the sticks the different grips the Flex the shape of the blade and the different sticks that are out there which one would be best for you if you're learning in your beginner frame for beginners I always recommend going for a wooden stick first reason for that is because wind sticks are nice and cheap when compared to the other varieties of sticks that you have out there you're going to bang the stick up a lot while you're learning how to play the sport so being that you're not spending too much money on it means you don't have to worry about your pocket and you can just focus on the game which is definitely something that you want to consider another reason for that is that wooden sticks also give you a great feel for where the puck is without having to look down which is definitely something to keep in mind in terms of the Flex if you're a beginner but your infant or a child we're going to go for a flex between 40 and 50 if you're the teenager to an intermediate level or even a beginner then where you want to go for a Flex between 60 and 75 a regular flex for somebody that's sort of an intermediate and anywhere above that point would be 80 to 85 and if you want to go any higher than that if you're a really big player say again your weight in your size comes – plane that sticks a lot if you're say a 14 Stein plan that's about six or seven foot sixty flex is not going to be strong enough for you you'll break the sticks and you keep them spending a lot of money on them so you want to go for something sort of between 85 to 100 flex if you will that sort of size and that sort of weight so that's another thing to keep in mind so one of the other points you need to keep in mind is definitely going to be the shape of the blade you have to maintain shapes of blades you either have square tires or rounded toes the square toes are normally recommend it for defenseman because it's really easy to kind of get the putts that are stuck against the boards and also get passes that are from pucks of the sliding against the board's due to the square shape of the blade but on round ablated square blades it's all personal preference the more you play the sport the more you learn and adapt to different styles of sticks and the more you'll be able to pick out what works best for you I'm also going to take a look at the kind of grips that you get on different sticks now with the beginner or basic own sticks you nobody get a lot of choice in terms of grip they normally have quite slippery surfaces not on offering an extreme amount of friction to the hand can slide up to up and down them quite comfortably but as you move up to the one-piece sticks the carbon fiber sticks you have a lot of different grips some that literally stop your hands for moving some people prefer that but again that's going to be personal preference this is why it's so important to come into a hockey store to get your equipment rather than buying it online because when you come into a store you get to feel what the other product feels I can get to play around with it looking the store that I'm in right now dealing extreme they have a synthetic room with a goal that you can go in there shoot some parks play with the sticks see if that's what's right for yourself which is definitely a possible buying it online because you don't want to buy stick on one that cost you X amount of money it gets home and you find out it's the wrong product it's just why I'm always going to stress come into your stores but these videos just give you a bit more information so you know what to expect when we come in but from there we're going to take a look at the shape of the curve of the old sticks blade you have a lot of different curves but again with beginner sticks you only get what they call p19 code or a sake curve which is kind of great curve in rounder you can do to sort of slap shots being able to lift the puck up it's a great point for you beginners to start off with until they learn and develop and see what they prefer but again if you want more information about sticks the different curves the different angles all of this kind of stuff over here including the flex points we have a video the annotation up there that give you a lot more detail on me so we're going to be taking a look at now on these bloody pads over here you can see there's a lot of different makes once again a lot of different models different ranges we're going to go over what you're getting for the extra amount of money and if you're a beginner what ones should you go for so we've got two over here two different makes we've got CCM over here and we've got a Horry of pads over here in terms of it they're both intended for the same level beginner to basic intermediate and in terms of the different pads or what you're getting for that student money these ones over here the warrior loans cost thirty four ninety nine the CCM arrives over here costs 40 399 the cesium is a much more recognizable brand and you won't pain a little bit more for that but also in terms of the pads when you go up in price what you're getting is a little bit extra comfort maybe a little bit more range of motion so it's a lot easier to move around in those pads but and also a slight extra bit of padding so you can see over here of this warrior one fairly soft around the Liam ribcage over here in the center point and these ones over here give you this extra type of support which is a bit more stiff so you are getting a tiny bit extra so when you go up in pads from intermediate to advanced what you're paying for is the name of course you're paying for a bigger range of motion more comfort and mobility while you're moving around in the pads and a little bit of extra padding but unlike the skates you're not paying for in lighter product these the more padding the more support you get the heavy of the product is going to get as we said beginners in this case you're going to be looking to spend about thirty four ninety nine to forty five pounds which is include both of these kits over here so take a look at these ones over here you can see these are intermediate ones over here these ones are more advanced in terms of the price the CCM you +8 kit over here this is the twelve eighths behind it this one grab four $74.99 and you can see we get four that is much more padding under here in terms of the pads they're much more mobile you have a lot more joints or in bits of material that are attached together rather than all of it being in just one big block which gives you a bigger range of motion better mobility and comfort while you're in it so this is the sort things that you're paying for when you go up in price point you're paying for much more support much more protection because you might be playing at the type of hockey that involves checking or a lot contact and also paying for a lot of mobility so the higher you go in price you're getting a lot more range of motion more comfort and a lot more padding but keep in mind as I'm stressing unlike the skates you don't get the lighter part with the pads they might be roughly about the same weight or even slightly heavier due to the extra pounds so in terms of the shorts over here again with price point what do you need to look out for when you're buying a pair there's a lot of different makes and models and as always you're going to be paying for those makes and models a quick example you have these over here these are by warrior this family shirts over here at cost $64.99 they're intended for beginners over here you have CCM u plus v Zorro 5s that again intended for beginners and make off $74.99 so you can see there's a price increase just because of the name they both offer the exact same amount of padding with the exact same amount of support the same range of motion but just because of the two different names you're paying a lot more for that the only other thing you need to keep in mind is what sort of fits these different brands have which again is why it's so important to come into store before you select which one you want online come into store get fitted and then see which one works out best for me but as you go up in the different browsers all you're really getting is increased support increased protection because as you know me go up in bands or inner models this level of hockey that you're playing gets much more severe normally you get a lot more contact in the sport as well hence why you need more pads but unlike the skates as you pay more for a product it doesn't get lighter with pads it gets heavier because you haven't wear padding more protection but what you do get is an increase in mobility so the higher up you go over my marble the more mobility equipment will be more easier B to move around inside it so the next thing we'll be taking a look at is going to be your shin and knee pads and also your elbow pads we'll start off for these ones all these are beginner to intermediate level em elbow pads and one thing that you're going to be getting as you move up in different levels is you're going to be getting more comfort more support and protection and more mobility so I'll take like a business over here these are beginner to intermediate so you're going to be looking to spend between 40 and 50 pounds to get your first set now what you're paying for when you go up in different models and different brands as we said mobility support and protection quick example of that the CCM zero sentence if I show you these very very quickly with these over here you can see that in terms of mobility you only have two points at this elbow pad that can move this is all one piece and you that flex point right there and that's it I put these down these are the zero sevens and if I show you me zero nines over here which are assumed sure you can see two months up you can see that the mobility in this is much much better you have this piece which can move individually to this piece which again will be individually this piece over here you get three individual different pieces in increasing your mobility and your comfort so you'll be a lot more flexible while you're using these so in these over here I think I forgot to mention with the elbow pads is with these the higher up you go in different models not only the more support you getting the more mobility but the weight of the products will increase slightly as well take a look at the knee and shin pads the same thing stands these are the 140s these would be good for beginners if it's your first pair or if you're an intermediate player again needs to be on more than ideal and price point for these you're going to be looking to spend fifty to sixty pounds anything above that you'll be looking towards intermediate to top-end style and remember with the top-end stuff if you're not playing for contact hockey then it's pointless having them you're just spending money on it because of the name and because of the endorsements for the hockey players which is why they're so expensive but what you get when you go up in price point movies from the different models you get more support more protection more shock absorption but again keep in mind that's going to increase the weight slightly but you also get a more anatomical fitting piece of equipment so it will contour and wrap to the shape of your body much more effectively making it much more comfortable to use so I'm going to take a look at now is helmets the difference between them and of course the price wing so again the same thing stand with your helmets as well a base point or the price that you want to start off with at the beginning if you're starting out is going to be 14 hours again to about fifty to sixty pounds that will give you a good helmet keep in mind all of these have to go through the same tests and to make them certified to use on the ice so you know you're going to be getting this level of basic protection guaranteed regardless of how much you spend but just to give you a sort of price point between sort of 49 to 50 pounds is where you want to spend time at run sperm in the press pair but again when you go up in the different models we're going to show you just the bauer range over here but the same thing stands for all in the different range while you get paying for is ventilation comfort also the secureness or the type of fit that you get and also named as always but in terms of comfort we'll show you exactly what only line like for example this helmet over here this is the 9900 hour which is pretty much any top-end helmet and what you're getting with this one over here as you can see an inside is an incredible amount of protection over there plenty of pads with extra pads in the middle of those pads as crazy as that sounds to increase the level of confidence support you get you also get these adjustable clips at the back if you can see that which move the base of the helmet in order for it to copy had a lot more comfortably and to fit a lot more securely with the baseline helmet you're not going to get this sort of level of detail or attention to detail and comfort moving up from there again as I said you get an incredible amount of pads on the inside to make it much more comfortable to use and you can see the starting of it in terms of how much of ventilation it has is incredible there's plenty of ventilation holes over there keeping you nice and dry and comfortable while you're on the ice this is the stuff that you can expect from a top-end helmet and we'll compare that to a baseline helmet if I put this down this one over here is the bauer 4500 which is sort of an intermediate to baseline helmet if we turn that on the inside you can see the level of conflict you get on those with pretty basic it's just one large piece of foam that's been cut into pretty much two or three separate pieces wrapping around the inside of that helmet so you do get the support and security but with this top and helmet on this side of the head you get sort of shock absorption so when you get hit the impact is spread around the helmet to reduce the level of compassion or the amount of risk in you getting concussions but with this one you don't get that sort of protection you can see that it's pretty basic you don't get those clips that I showed you at the bottom there even if it's the exact same make because this is a more based on to beginner level helmet and again with the ventilation you can see you don't have all the ventilation charts going around the sides it's pretty basic but you still did get that basic amount which is good enough for you and you're starting out so another point to mention which is very important is that in terms of the helmet itself you're paying around 50 pounds for your first sort of intermediate to basic or beginner level helmet you're only going to get the helmet for that 50 pounds if you want to get a combo set which includes the helmet and the cage to keep your face protected and well ventilated you're looking at about seventy four ninety-nine that's going to be the helmet and the cage they're definitely worth having you don't want to take apart to the face and the keeping in mind the visors only covers half you face you might have seen that over here you can see that the it features a visor that only covers the eyes and sort of the tip of your nose it doesn't protect your mouth your chin which is definitely important you'd only lose teeth so $74.99 give you the visor protects everything keeps you all ventilated $74.99 a good price point so last but not least but also they'll be taking a look at the gloves your first pair of gloves are going to be looking to spend around fifty to sixty hours that will give you a good pair of gloves very decent allow you to get used to the using the stick and the feel of the gloves while using the stick while you're nervous but what you want to keep in mind when you're paying for sort of you know hundreds of pounds for different gloves and the things that you're painful is going to be the brand and the styling the name is going to be the biggest price point that you find the bigger going name the more that you have to fork out for cash mobility which is in terms of how comfortable how flexible you can move your fingers while you're inside the gloves and the next thing is going to be the support instruction or the overall comfort of the glove so quick example these are bauer supreme 120s these are a nice beginner level glove they fit on my hand very very nicely giving me enough room for my fingers to breathe they're fairly mobile as you can see there can be my fingers quite easily and they give me a good feel for the glove well also I'm sorry a good feel for the stick while I'm using the gloves and also they're quite well protected is you can see right there take a look at these ones over here these are the Eastern RS which are a top-end scaped escape air hockey glove these ones over here give me an incredible good feel while I'm in there nice and comfortable you can actually the padding in the inside head feels incredible very comfortable in terms of how much mobility I have you can see that to me my fingers very very well they feel like just normal gloves that you'd wear if your fingers work on terms of the styling you can see that it looks much much better loads of nice sublimated designs which are built into the material so they would fade or wear away as you use them and you can see that they have an incredible amount of protection outside there which is exactly what you'd expect from the top-end glove these are the sort clubs that you find NHL players using so what I just wanted to show you up close over here is if you look closely to these gloves which is coming into the mobility factor you can see that this over here for one finger is completely one-piece there's no break in the middle there or a sort of a flex point for your finger to be able to move independently which means these would be quite stiff these are the supreme 120s as we said this is a beginner the glove it'll be good for you to get the basics with but as you can see it is quite restricting I'll show you a comparison with the top-end glove again over here I have the Eastern RS for you you can see with these ones that you have your fingers are allowed to move completely independently there's nice flex points all between there with extra padding so your mobility inside these girls would be much much more improved when compared to the other ones that we just showed you and as well as the pavilion design as we said all sublimated patterns over here that very nice and extra padding this is these are the differences that you can expect when you go from beginner to intermediate to advanced so if you wondered how much a beginner pair of gloves cost as compared to an advanced pair the bauer supreme one 20s retail for $59.99 and the RS which are the top end glove retail for 150 $9.99 so you can see there's a massive price difference in terms of what you get all your painful and also there's quite a significant difference in terms of the features that you're getting but if it's just for recreational hockey you don't need to go above intermediate so please keep that in mind and save yourselves a lot of money so after shopping around Diamond extreme the total that we've come out with which is a baseline to give you an idea of the minimum you're going to be spending to keep the player out roughly my size on about five eight nine five nine to kill a player up – size with basic equipment you're looking at six hundred and seventy pounds this price is based on everything that you're going to need to get on the ice including the helmet including the grill that goes over the helmet your girdle to keep your general area safe and also the sweat suit which was underneath the pads everything the player needs this is based on getting all of the same equipment from the same manufacturer so you pads the helmet everything from the same manufacturer for example Cynthiana pads knee pads skates by buying everything from the same manufacturer that reduces the price if you mix and match from different manufacturers to get more custom look or to just get things that you've seen on TV or you're friends with that will increase the price so keep in mind buy through the same manufacturer save yourself some money this is all baseline equipment just to get a player started but one thing I will say is be sure that you get the right pair of skates the price that I've given you is based on a pair of beginner to intermediate level skates $249.99 four pair of C oven the Bauer Vapor X 3 windows which are good intermediate skate with cesium's you could go for something like a CCM 0 6 to 0-8 those are a good intermediate level skates which will last you for a while it makes more sense to buy something that's gonna last rather than buying something that's only gonna get you by for a few months and then you'll find yourself with a hockey still needing to be placed in that area quickly all of the quotations and prices for all of the products that we've gone over will be in the link description so if you're looking to pick up your kit you'll have an idea license from this store over here as I always say I do recommend cutting into sorts to get you care so you can be sure of everything don't forget guys if you want more help post any comments or questions you have below and they'll be a link to the video in the video description to the website where you can join the forum page and stay in touch with me or anyone from the website and ask any questions that you may need and also don't forget to follow us on Twitter Facebook and Instagram all of the links are going to be below the video description Chris market story take care – next on 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How to cut your electric bill in half part 2  free ideas DIY by Missouri Wind and Solar

**How to cut your electric bill in half part 2 free ideas DIY by Missouri Wind and Solar**



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Link to Part 3 How To Cut Your Electric Bill In Half MISSOURI WIND AND SOLAR WEBSITE …